Archive for October, 2009 Page 5 of 7



Greenhouse Preparation Tips

If you have some gardening experience with open tillage, raised beds, or pots on your patio, you will be able to apply much of your knowledge to greenhouse gardening with just a bit of variation to gardening under glass.  A greenhouse is not in all cases a “hot house,” as it is sometimes called.  Some species of plants do best at slightly lower temperatures and with a much higher humidity than is usually maintained in a natural outdoor garden or inside your home.  The temperature and humidity levels inside a greenhouse can be regulated fairly easily.

Greenhouse kits

There are a number of reasons why gardeners may choose to garden inside a greenhouse.  The most common reason is usually a desire to extend the traditional growing season into the winter months.  The use of a greenhouse also enables the gardener to retain plants in the fall and throughout the winter for spring seeding or planting use.  When starting new plants from seed, a greenhouse allows you to plant the seedlings sooner than you would if they were sowed directly in the outdoor garden.  Starting plants from seed is also a very economical option, as opposed to the expense of purchasing young plants from a nursery.  Other common reasons for greenhouse gardening include growing tropical or exotic plants, growing vegetables for winter use, and experimenting with hybridization of plants as a hobby or for home science experiments.

Greenhouse supplies

When preparing to set up your greenhouse, you’ll want to consider designing a workflow layout for your new space.  For example, there will be days you will just plant seeds and other days you will be transferring seedlings from small beds to larger beds.  You may want your potting tables in one specific location, shelves in another, etc.  The layout is something you want to think through carefully to insure you are not going to have to remove everything after the first season and rearrange.  One way to design a layout is to spend some time doing “play work” in your greenhouse, or simply imaging how your work will be done in the space.

The location you choose for your greenhouse is critical.  You do not want a shade tree blocking important sunlight.  When planning the location, also keep in mind that a tree that’s small right now will grow much larger over the next five, ten, or fifteen years.  You should also think about traffic patterns.  Is the greenhouse going to be convenient to access?  Is it far enough away from the street and lot lines to satisfy local building codes and neighbors?  Also be sure to explore whether your neighborhood has any local covenants that would affect the building of a greenhouse.

Another important part of greenhouse preparation is determining if you want to build the structure yourself or hire outside labor.  First, you’ll have to carefully and honestly assess your own abilities and skills to execute a DIY project of this magnitude.  What tools will be necessary and do you have access to them and the knowledge to operate them?  Are you physically fit to do the job yourself?  Will you be able to execute the job in a timetable that meets your own needs and expectations?

If you do decide to hire outside help, be sure to check references carefully.  Have they built other greenhouses before?  If so, get a list of some projects they’ve completed in your local area and do a drive-by evaluation of their work.  Or better yet, stop and knock on the door and inquire with the homeowner about the project.  Was it completed in a timely manner and did the contractor stick to the budget?  Were there any unexpected delays or costs that came up during construction?  Most homeowners that are proud of the end result will be happy to talk to you and show you their new greenhouse.  Lastly, you’ll want to find out if the contractor is bonded and insured.  The last thing you want is to hire some for a day’s labor and then find yourself with a workers’ compensation claim because they were injured on the job and the firm did not have insurance.

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Garden Soil: From Bad To Good

The first step in good gardening is having good garden soil.  Unfortunately, the vast majority of us aren’t blessed with the perfect soil that is rich and fertile, well draining, full of nutrients, and free of foreign matter.  Some of us have rocky or sandy soil, or soil with a high clay content.  The good news is, you don’t have to live with poor soil.  Garden soil can be improved with a little time, patience, and effort.

Earthworms

The first step in improving your garden soil is preparation.  If grass and weeds have not been removed yet, this is where you should start.  If you are working with a small area, say less than 10 square feet, you can probably get by using a sharp spade and some brute force.  However, if you’re removing grass from a larger area, you might want to consider renting a sod kicker or gas powered sod cutter for a day, as this will make the work faster and much easier.

Once the grass is gone, the next step is tilling.  The goal of tilling is to break up any large clumps of dirt and remove foreign matter that shouldn’t be there, such as sticks and stones.  Again, if you’re working with a small area, this task can be accomplished with a hoe or garden cultivator.  For larger areas, an electric or gas powered rotary tiller can be enormously helpful in this process.

Once the soil is broken up, the next step is to address what you’ve got.  The most common bad soil situations will fall into one of two categories: too much sand or too much clay.  If you pick up a handful of your soil, squeeze it together to form a ball and it simply crumbles and falls from your hand, then your soil contains too much sand.  The problem with sandy soil is that it’s too well drained; it won’t hold water or nutrients long enough for the plants to absorb them.  On the other end of the spectrum, if your soil balls up into a sticky, wet mess in your hand that won’t break apart even if you try, then you’ve got too much clay.  Garden soil with a high clay content will do just the opposite of sandy soil; it will hold water too well.  In fact, clayey soil won’t drain at all.  It is constantly wet and sticky and it’s usually also too cold to allow plants to thrive.

The good news is that both these problems can be resolved.  For soil with too much clay, you can mix in sand to help it drain better.  For sandy soil, clay can be added to help with water retention.  A better idea, though, might be to till in some organic matter such as peat moss or compost.  Organic matter has been described as the cure-all for any type of bad soil situation, and this is mostly true.  When added regularly over a period of several years, compost or peat moss will take sandy or clayey soil and turn it into a rich, fertile loam that’s rich in nutrients.

It’s also a good idea to incorporate some fertilizer into your garden soil, too.  While organic matter does add essential nutrients to your soil, it may not fully make up for deficiencies in the basic nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  To be certain of exactly what nutrients your soil is lacking, you may want to have the soil tested.  For a nominal fee, many county extension offices will do soil testing if you mail them a sample.  Or, you can buy inexpensive soil testing kits from your local garden center that will allow you to test for essential nutrients and pH of your soil.  While it is recommended to test your soil before adding fertilizer, you can simply apply a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer if you don’t have time or don’t want to test first.  A 10-10-10 fertilizer simply means that it contains 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 10% potassium (also known as potash) by weight, with the remainder of the material being inert material.

With some time and effort, and the right materials for amending, even the poorest quality garden soil can be turned into a rich and fertile soil that will be perfect for growing all kinds of plants.  Remember that the key steps are preparation, tilling, and finally amending with organic matter and fertilizers, as needed.  With these steps, plus a good dose of patience, you can take your garden soil from bad to good, and your plants will thank you for it!

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Cool Weather Vegetable Gardening

If you’re like most gardeners, you probably can’t wait for the weather to warm up so you can get outside and start planting.  Particularly in the case of vegetable gardening, most plants can’t go in the ground until the weather warms up significantly and the danger of frost has passed.  But have you considered planting some cool weather vegetable crops that can be sown as early as several weeks before the last expected frost date?  Cool weather vegetables are a great way to get a head start on the season’s plantings.  Not only do cool weather veggies keep your planting areas productive for more months of the year, they also allow you to get out in the garden earlier in the spring.  In this article, we’ll explore a few varieties of cool weather vegetables that you might want to try growing in your garden this spring.

Radishes

Carrots:
Anyone who says they don’t like carrots has probably never tasted fresh carrots out of a homegrown vegetable garden.  Carrots are a great crop to start early in the year because they are resistant to cold temperatures.  Sow your carrot seeds directly in the garden as early as the soil can be worked.  Good soil preparation is important if you want to have good looking carrots.  If there are any sticks or rocks in the top several inches of soil, your carrots will be misshapen because they will have to grow around these obstacles.

After your carrot seeds have germinated, be sure to thin them out early, while the plants are still small.  For the best tasting carrots, harvest the plants while they are still young.  If carrots stay in the soil too long, they will become tough and less flavorful.

Lettuce:
Lettuce is a very popular homegrown crop because it’s so easy to grow.  Lettuce prefers cool temperatures, so it can also be started early in the year.  There are many different varieties of lettuce to choose from.  For a nice variation, consider buying a packet of mesclun mix seeds, which will give you a sampling of a half dozen or so of the more popular varieties.  Lettuce seeds can be sown directly in the garden, or they can be grown in planter boxes on a porch or patio.  One thing to keep in mind about growing lettuce-the plants won’t last all summer long.  Lettuce should be planted in the early spring because it will quickly die off in the hot midsummer temperatures.  If you have an area of your garden where you grow perennials, consider planting your lettuce there in the early spring, while there’s still plenty of space.  By the time your perennials start getting bigger, your lettuce crop will be just about done for the year anyway, and can be removed.

Spinach:
Spinach, like lettuce, is another leafy vegetable that grows well in cool spring temperatures.  Spinach seeds can be sown directly in the garden as early as the soil can be worked.  For an ongoing crop, you can continue sowing additional spinach seeds at 10 day intervals until the weather becomes too warm for the plants.  Young spinach plants are a favorite of rabbits, so if these garden pests become a problem in your yard, you may have to install chicken wire fencing around your garden area.  Another option is to sprinkle bloodmeal around the plants.  Many animals, including rabbits, will not cross a line of bloodmeal.

Peas:
Peas are another cool weather favorite, growing easily from early spring until the weather becomes too warm for the plant to tolerate.  One of the best things about peas is that they are a vining plant, meaning they will grow vertically upward.  This means that they take up a very small amount of garden real estate, while still producing heavily.  Peas should be sown directly in the garden as early as the soil can be worked.  One good method is to plant your peas in long rows, and once the plants germinate, provide a fence of plastic netting or chicken wire alongside the row for the plants to grow upon.  It’s also a good idea to add a thick layer of mulch to the established pea vines to help keep the roots cool and to retain soil moisture.

Carrots, lettuce, spinach, and peas are just a few examples of cool weather vegetables.  There are many other vegetables in addition to these that can be planted early in the spring.  With a little experimentation, you’ll be able to find a mix of cool weather veggies that you can grow early in the year to make better use of your garden space and to give your green thumb an early spring workout.

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